
Words and images by Her Two Wheels
Why The Lakes?
I often take advantage of the fact that the Great Lakes of North America are the world's largest concentration of freshwater. Combined with a rich history of maritime travel, industrialism, and indigenous history, I knew this trip would be unlike anything I'd experienced prior. Not to mention the incredible roads and the already established "Great Lakes Circle Tour".
My Personal Favorite Moments
Heading east along the Trans-Canada Highway, I made a stop at Lake Superior Provincial Park to see the Agawa Rock Pictographs. The trail down is steep and narrow, and it drops you right onto a rock ledge at the water’s edge. The pictographs — painted centuries ago by the Ojibwe — are still there, clinging to the cliff face just above the crashing waves. Don’t make the same mistake as me. Avoid bad weather and rainy days; the rocks are slick and dangerous, and I was unable to see 90% of the attraction.
Thunder Bay isn’t just a cool name on a map — it’s home to some of the richest amethyst deposits in North America. I didn’t know what to expect from amethyst mining, but let me tell you, there’s something oddly addicting about digging through piles of rocks. I ended up riding away with a bucket full of gems and a chunk that barely fit in my saddlebag, grinning like a kid who just found buried treasure. This was an experience I can't wait to relive!
The Upper Peninsula of Michigan has its own rhythm — shaped by thousands of years of Native history and stories of maritime disasters. I was ensnared by the local hospitality and entranced by the beauty of the UP. Especially the Keweenaw Peninsula. I hugged the southern edge of Lake Superior, stopping in tiny harbors and scenic pull-offs, the kind of places you can easily miss. Riding solo meant I could stop whenever I felt like it — no schedule, no rush.
The Roads I’ll Never Forget
Routes such as the Niagara Parkway, Trans Canada Highway, Forks of the Credit Road, Michigan’s Tunnel of Trees, and countless others that deserve a second go. But then there was the wild, endless shoreline of Lake Superior. It felt more like riding next to an ocean than a lake. One minute it was calm, glassy, and perfect; the next, it was crashing with whitecaps and crazy wind. (Did someone say, 'Mackinac Bridge'?)
The Perfect Ride for the Great Lakes
For this trip, I was on my Harley-Davidson Pan America, and honestly, I couldn’t have picked a better travel companion. The U.P. and the north shore of Lake Superior aren’t just about smooth scenic highways — they’ve got rough backroads, gravel pull-offs, and the kind of uneven, remote terrain that makes you grateful for an adventure bike. The Pan America handled it all without complaint. One minute I was leaning into tight, paved sweepers along the shoreline; the next, I was bouncing down a rutted road to check out a hidden beach — and the bike didn’t miss a beat.
By the end of the Great Lakes Escape, I’d put down a solid chunk (3,000+ miles) toward my challenge total, and I can’t think of a better way to rack up those miles than on a bike built to go anywhere and take you everywhere.
Coming Home Changed
By the time I looped back toward home, the trip had racked up more than just miles. It gave me a deeper connection to the Great Lakes, a little more confidence in crossing borders alone, and a reminder that you don’t always have to ride across the country to find adventure. Sometimes, it’s sitting just a few hours away, waiting for you to finally notice.
The Great Lakes Escape wasn’t just about checking a route off my list — it was about proving to myself that I can still surprise myself, even on roads not so far from home. The entire series can be watched over on my YouTube Channel: @HerTwoWheels.
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